I did it again. I succumbed to the lure of France.
My son and I just returned from the department of Dordogne: a beautiful region in Southwestern France. For me, there is nothing better than this. Anything else in life pales in comparison.
In Dordogne, we were completely surrounded by beauty - the gorgeous medieval architecture, contemporary homes constructed with the stone of the region; incredible views; spending hours at the table enjoying the fabulous food: foie gras, truffles, local cheeses - Rocamadour - a cabecou cheese (our favorite), walnuts, and of course, the local wine. We visited Vin de Domme located in Florimon-Gaumier, and had a wonderful presentation by a nice fellow who spoke English. The Pays de Domme appellation comes from cooperative growers with vineyards above the river Ceou that runs through the Lot and Dordogne departments of Southwestern France. We tasted through the line - reds and roses of cabernet franc, merlot, and malbec; and whites of chardonnay and semillon.
We stayed in Sarlat at Le Hameau des Sentiers - a picturesque hamlet with houses and apartments. Here is the view and a walk around the property.
To find a restaurant, we looked at reviews and asked for recommendations from locals. But the best dining experiences we had were in restaurants that we just happened upon. One of them was at a hotel/restaurant called La Trielle - our first meal in Dordogne. We sat on a charming patio overlooking a brook. There were only a few other people dining here and it was very quiet (just the way I like it!) and comfortable. The amuse bouche was a veloute, wonderfully rich and delicious. A simply perfect taste - a preview of delights to come.
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La Trielle - Hotel and Restaurant in Vitrac
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The main course. Soft, sumptuous, melt in your mouth braised beef. Definitely worthy of snap chat.
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Another wonderful meal was in the charming village of Beynac. First, we enjoyed a steep walk to the top of the village, taking pictures along the way.
After all that exercise, we rewarded ourselves at this restaurant toward the bottom of the hill.
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La Terrasse des Chateaux, a beautiful outdoor dining experience overlooking the Dordogne River
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The Dordogne
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With hats available to shield the rays
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I met the chef after this meal and told him that I'd write a review. Here's what I contributed to TripAdvisor:
Our last restaurant during our Dordogne vacation was awesome. Wonderful périgourdine cuisine. The terrace overlooks the river. The food was delicious, portions unusually generous and very much appreciated. We selected the reasonably-priced menu €24 - Rocamadour salad - rocamadour cheese on toast, with walnuts, balsamic vinegar; salmon with potatoes and vegetables - absolutely perfectly cooked salmon - warm pink interior, potatoes that melt in your mouth - outstanding! Dessert was delicious - cheesecake with cherries very tasty, the walnut “pie” also good. Excellent selection of wines by the glass (€4).... rose crisp and refreshing, beers also excellent. Everything was wonderfully presented, savory, and satisfying. Quiet, casual, atmosphere, outside dining. This was the second of two places that we just happened upon which turned out to be perfect. The other was Hotel Restaurant La Trielle, Vitrac - traditional, quiet, ancient.
If you visit Dordogne and your life thereafter seems pathetic, you can't say I didn't warn you.
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